Whitewater Rafting and Kayaking Blog

When the best and most gorgeous rafting trips in the world are discussed, it’s hard to go past the Rio Futaleufu in Patagonia. Set in the stunning Region X in Chile with its spectacular mountains, glaciers, lakes, rivers and native forest, the Futaleufu River offers the most avid adventurer, an experience of a lifetime in our home away from home. We have a stunning ranch on the bank of the river where you’ll stay in cabanas (cabins) looking out over the river, enjoying a glass of red wine or an ice cold beer contemplating just how great your rafting was today!

The view from your cabana in Chile

You’ll be accompanied by a team of world class rafting guides, who are not only the best in the industry and will safely guide you down the river during the day, but they transform into supreme chefs in the evening, making you one of wonderful meals they prepare on the trip. You will sample not only wonderful western cuisine, but also traditional food from Chile such as Asado, Porotos Granados or Pollo Arvejado. Our cabins offer you a comfortable alternative to camping, each set up with comfortable beds and mattress and a chair to sit on your balcony and overlook the Futaleufu.

Stan and crew paddling through "Himalaya" on the Futaleufu River

In addition to rafting all the best rapids and sections of the Futaleufu, including Bridge to Bridge, Inferno Canyon and the Terminator section, travellers get the chance to explore some of the side valleys of the region including the Azul Valley. During our week’s adventure we horse ride into the Azul Valley and then take inflatable kayaks back out to the Futaleufu. For many of our clients, this day, is one of the highlights of the trip for them. Come and experience one of the best rivers in the world.

Dates Available:

26th December 2009 – 2nd January 2010
6th February 2010 – 13th February 2010

Agreed by many as one of the last few great rafting expeditions in the world, the Omo River in Ethiopia has long held a draw for the most avid adventure traveler. The mixture of travel into deepest darkest Africa combined with fantastic wildlife viewing and incredible tribal interaction have made this trip a favourite since it was run in the 1980′s. Recently some negative press has been given to EBCO, the Ethiopian Power Authority for the impact of what the Gibe III power project half way down the river trip, will have on the famed tribes on the lower reaches of the river. This has meant them influencing the Ministry of Tourism and no more permits are being issued at this time for running the river.

Young Mursi Girl Chatting With Our Guests

The trip is split into  two unique sections. The Upper River is a phenomenal insight into the wonderful wildlife of the area. Abundant hippos, crocodiles and bird life can be seen from our rafts, with incredible campsites (some with hotpools!) at every turn of the river. We have on occasion even seen lion from the rafts! As the trip is so long, we require a resupply at Bele Bridge for fresh produce (of AMAZING quality in Ethiopia) and people who may just be running the Lower Reaches of the river, made famous by the tribes of the area. Bruce Parry made a high profile BBC TV programme in the area called Tribes which focused on Bruce living with the Karo, Omorate, Bodi, Hamer, Mursi tribes. On our trips we call into tribal villages along the way and get a real chance to trade and interact with these wonderful people. It is like going back in time.

Hamer Tribe Watching Us Raft Past

The Gibe III project is providing excellent resources for what is a relatively poor African Country, however with all projects such as this, there can be negative implications for some people. Our job is not to get into this discussion, but to share with as many people as we possibly can, the amazing scenery and wildlife of the Omo Valley. On our last trip in August 2009, we were treated to some wonderful hospitality by the dam builders when our trip arrived at the coffer dam, our boats were transported to the other side of the dam fully loaded whilst the clients and guides were treated to a wonderful meal of Italian food (the dam is being built by Italian Engineers)

Jane Portaging Her Raft Around Gibe III

Potentially, this river can be run for another 3 years whilst the main dam wall is being built and we are trying our best, through dealings with Ministry of Tourism and Embassy officials to share this with more of you. The only thing that is certain, is if they do allow more trips on this river, it should be on the top of your MUST DO list!

T.I.A. ? This Is Africa ? This is a saying that you learn quite quickly once you set foot on the Dark Continent.  It’s a term used by many expats to accompany the sighs of frustration that come on a daily basis when you’re trying to accomplish even the simplest of tasks here in Africa.  The lack of urgency in dealing with simple business deals by the Africans, the difficulty in obtaining many goods and services, and the general Hakuna Matata attitude can have the typical westerner throwing their arms up in the air, gritting their teeth, and mumbling curse words under their breath.  Then the reality of the situation sinks in and you start to understand that you must go with the flow and take things in stride.  It’s Africa.  Things move slower.  Goods are harder to come by.  And business takes longer to transact.  That’s the reality of the situation.  Love it or leave it.

Victoria Falls In High Water

Water By Nature runs whitewater rafting trips in three countries in Africa.  I happen to find myself in the heart of southern Africa at the moment in the wild country of Zambia.  Zambia is home to arguably the greatest whitewater-rafting trip in the world, a multi-day expedition down the Mighty Zambezi River.  As a Water By Nature trip leader this destination is doubly challenging: there is the dynamic of organizing logistics in Africa combined with the intimidating force of one of the greatest rivers in the world.

A Successful Run Through "The Midnight Diner"

This isn’t my first rodeo as a Water By Nature trip leader.  Before Zambia, I was leading the Water By Nature operations in Turkey and Morocco.  As a result I have experience dealing with logistics in remote and non-western locations.  But there’s something about Zambia that’s different.  For example, friends have been waiting for 6 months for car parts; propane may or not be available; supermarket shelves are not always full; and your credit card gets rejected on a regular basis not for insufficient funds but because a network connection cannot be established.  These are the types of things that you need to deal with on a regular basis.  Once you commit yourself to this way of life then things are less frustrating and in general easier.

Another wrench thrown into the fray for us here at Water By Nature was one by Mother Nature.  Just as high water plagued us in Morocco, the Mighty Zambezi was a wee bit full when we arrived here at the beginning of August.  Call it the effects of climate change or just call it bad luck for the 2009 rafting season, but either way, a new plan had to hatch because the upper section of the river, rapids 1 to 7, was closed.

Our trip was scheduled to launch on August 9 while the upper river was going to open on August 10.  One day does not make a huge difference in water levels but one day can make a large impact on local politics.  Not wanting to create a political row we employed that all-so-sfamiliar term in the adventure travel world: Change of Plan.

What was to result was a fabulous trip for all those involved.  We started our rafting journey by hiking down to rapid 7B and continuing on to rapid 21 on the first day.  The second day of rafting took us down to the Narrows and a new beach camp on the Zimbabwe side of the river.  The third day culminated at Moemba Falls with Gin and Tonics on the edge of the lower waterfall.  And the fourth day was the most unique of all.  We started with a helicopter ride back to Victoria Falls where we rafted the top section of the river all the way down to Number 25,  the best day trip of rafting in the entire world.

Floating down to camp

This trip was full of firsts.  It was the first time anyone had journeyed past Rapid 25 this year.  It was the first time a rafting trip did the river in this particular order.  And it was my first trip on the Zambezi as a trip leader.

The river did not fail to live up to its reputation.  For many years it’s been one of my goals to guide here and thanks to Water By Nature I’ve achieved this one particular goal.  Depending on who you talk with in the whitewater world there are two rivers that continually rank as either one or two as the top rafting trips in the world: the Zambezi River and the Rio Futaleufu in Chile.  Being an experienced Futaleufu river guide I was eager to get to the Zambezi and decide for myself which is the better of the two rivers.  I thought the answer would be easy to find.  One has to be better than the other.  But the fact of the matter is that both rivers and both trips are so different that it is not really fair to rank one above the other.  Both are the best in whitewater.  The size of the Zambezi definitely impressed me as did the world-class camping and stunning scenery.  In completing my first river trip on the Zambezi the conclusion is quite clear that this is one of the best holidays in the adventure travel world.

Now that the upper section of the river is open for rafting the rest of the Water By Nature season will operate as per usual; that is 4-day and 7-day rafting trips starting from below Victoria Falls at rapid Number 1. However, there is still the unpredictability of Africa.  Anything and everything can happen here.  That’s part of the beauty of living, working, and traveling on the Dark Continent.  Africa is predictably unpredictable.  And remember when you’re traveling here on your next holiday: This Is Africa.  It may seem elementary but Africa is not just another continent, it’s a whole different world. See you out here!

Bob Vranich

Just recently an Aussie girl on the advice of a New Zealand guy she met some 9 years ago (goes by the name of Hamish or Mush, you may have heard of him?!) decided to pack her bags and head to the Grand Canyon in search of the next life adventure.  Her last adventure with Water By Nature was in 2000 when she joined the crew for 6 days in Turkey rafting the Coruh…  People asked – why so long between Water By Nature trips Holli?  I had to be honest.  I let them know that due to the Global Financial Crisis (GFC), Mush’s selection criteria had to slacken and allowed the previously avoided Aussie back on deck, much to his despair!  I was rubbing my hands in glee!!

Bruce and his Dory crew taking in the view

Thankfully being allowed to join the Colorado adventure, Flagstaff beckoned and little did I know it was going to honestly be the holiday of my lifetime.  A combination of amazing scenery, fun white water of all levels, gorgeous hot weather, fabulously funny and professional guides, gourmet food, beverage fuelled themed party nights on beach camping grounds dancing around a bucket “fire”, no tent necessary with the stars too beautiful to part with, spectacular hikes into stunning canyons with waterfalls and hopefully for the boys Mermaids around the corner, extensive spandex / lycra to giggle at (funnily enough even though it’s banned on ALL Water By Nature documentation!), majestic views of that mother of a canyon and great like minded people to share the whole experience with made it the incredible journey it was.

Relaxing at the Little Colorado

Those people included Dwayne from Georgia; who gave us his fail proof dating tips, Clare & Edgar; seasoned Water By Nature veterans, who regaled tales of their  Omo river adventures, Bob was a virgin to the rafting world and became the bailer extraordinaire, James the London banker became the tanning king in the super hot sun, Alain & Max; father & son trip, bought the french element to the 2 weeks, along with JB the 67 yr old french superman who loves his lycra / spandex collection(!), Sebastian the Swissie became the intermediary between the frenchies and the rest of the crew, bouncing between all of us successfully and then there was little ‘ol me… a lone Aussie chick trying to fly under the radar so Mush wouldn’t ban her for another 8 years!!

Compulsory Turban for Curry Night

Bruce cap-i-tan of the Dory, penny whistling Louisa & Halibut fisherman Josh gear boating pro’s joined us from America as our hosts down the river.  Stan, 6ft 4in, red haired, cool, calm and collected South African paddle boat guide, the comedian Tyler driving the solo gear boat & Sean ever professional quietly spoken Zimbabwean videographer were our Water By Nature connection – 6 of the best, hopefully you’ll meet them on your journey….

Don't expect to lose weight!

Be warned – This trip is a life changer!  Utterly.  It really is spectacular and I cannot recommend this adventure highly enough to anyone that loves an extended relaxed expedition style rafting adventure.  I heard on the trip that for any rafting guide, the Colorado river is the Mecca of all rivers and the goal of all to say that they had the opportunity to work their way along it’s banks.  For the normally big water punter like me, it was absolute pure heaven and a journey that will never be replicated.    Experience it for yourself, book in next May – I can promise you, you won’t regret it!

Holli VB, Tasmania, AUSTRALIA

Most people will do some sort of road trip in their lifetime. Some will do a road trip across their province or state and the lucky ones might drive across an entire country. If you work for Water By Nature, however, road trip takes on a whole new meaning. We don’t just traverse states and provinces and countries but entire continents. The latest WBN adventure was a road trip of epic proportions, a drive from Africa to Asia across the European land mass.

WBN in Spain or was that France? Italy? Greece?

Water By Nature runs a rafting and kayaking season in Morocco. It also operates a rafting season in eastern Turkey on a river called the Coruh. The seasons are back to back and the same equipment and guides are usually used for both seasons. Now, in order to get gear and people from Morocco to Turkey we drive our van and trailer across Europe. The exact route varies from year to year depending on whose driving and the intentional or unintentional detours those drivers take. But, in general, the drive starts in Morocco and crosses the Straits of Gibraltar into Spain. From Spain the crew drives along the Mediterranean coast across France and Italy to the Adriatic coast. From there, a ferry service is used to cross the Adriatic Ocean to Greece. New motorways facilitate the crossing of that country to the edge of the European Union. Once past the Turkish border its smooth sailing all the way to Istanbul. Istanbul marks the end of Europe and the beginning of Asia all in one city. Once on the other side of the Bosporus, it’s still another 24 hours to Erzurum in the far eastern part of the country. In total, this 3600-mile journey usually takes about 8-10 days.

This year, Sven, Ethan, and Bob left Morocco on May 5^th and arrived in Istanbul on May 12^th. Along the way they spent a night near Marseilles, France and Pisa, Italy. Then in Greece, plagued with a little road weariness, they opted for two days of rest and relaxation on the beaches of the Kassandra Peninsula. The crew left Istanbul on the morning of the 14^th and arrived safely in Erzurum on the morning of the 15^th.

The Coruh season starts this weekend. The excitement level amongst the guides and clients for the first trip is tremendous. Everyone knows that this river is incredible. Unfortunately, this is the last season for this river as well. A damming project has already started and after this season the river will no longer be raftable. This whitewater classic, which has served countless numbers of rafters so well, will be lost forever. We’re here to enjoy it one last time!

So, after 3600 miles, 6 countries, 3 continents, countless hours, 17 Red Bulls, 87 coffees (between Bob an Sven), several hundred liters of fuel, too many truck stop meals, too many Cokes, not enough sleep, and way too much European dance music, the road trip is over. Mission accomplished. Next step: run the Coruh, enjoy the Coruh, and remember the Coruh. If you think that this road trip was a bit excessive just to get to a river, then you haven’t paddled the Coruh yet!

If you believe in karma you sometimes wonder what some creatures did in a previous life to deserve their present state. Questions like this riddle the brain when you travel in Morocco. For example, what creature deserved to be reincarnated as the Moroccan donkey that suddenly collapsed dead in front of my van under a load of two tonnes of cement causing a horrific traffic jam in Marrakech. An even more severe example are those who revisit this earth as Berber women, the hardest working souls in Northern Africa, whose husbands lounge in the tea and coffee shops sipping strong brews and generally do nothing. Yet another example of severe karmic debt repaid in Morocco are those Water By Nature guides who experienced the most difficult rafting and kayaking season to date.

Berber Woman

Morocco is a beautiful country with a rich culture, varied geography, and interesting people. It is a land that is not quite Africa and not quite Europe. Some say its Islamic roots classify it with the Middle East but even still its geographical displacement keeps it separated from this region as well. As a result, this No Man’s Land of a country is a unique destination.

In addition to the cultural and geographic variations of this interesting land there are abundant opportunities for outdoor adventure. Surfing, kite boarding, and windsurfing dominate the beaches in Morocco while trekking, rafting, and kayaking are found throughout the snow-capped Atlas Mountains. For the Water By Nature Morocco crew this year it was the appeal of rafting and kayaking in a destination that is so different from other places that landed us in Sunny Morocco.

Sunny Morocco was a bit of an ongoing joke amongst the crew this season. For the past ten WBN seasons in Morocco the weather, and in particular the sunshine, was as constant as the local children’s demands for d’argent, stylos, and bonbons. This guaranteed weather created the right water levels to run amazing trips on the Oued Ahansel. However, this season was entirely different. Regardless of whether you put the blame on global warming or the past sins of all the WBN river guides, the strange weather patterns and climatic changed experienced in Morocco this year was something that had not been experienced in over 50 years!

Snow on the Atlas Mountains is not a unique thing. In fact, some of the higher peaks, those over 4000 meters, have snow on them year round. But what made this year unique was the amount of snow. Typically, spring begins sometime in February and by the beginning of March, the usual start of the rafting season, the snow line has receded significantly and the rivers being fed by these snows are finishing their flood stages. This year, the snow continued to fall until April and the snowfields only began their recession toward the end of April. That, combined with heavy and frequent rains, kept the rivers of the High Atlas in flood stage for over two months.

Lost in the Atlas

For some rivers flooded is better than normal. However, for the rivers coming off the steep slopes of the Atlas, flooded means dangerous and unraftable whitewater. On the Ahansel River the water was flowing through the trees, about three meters above the normal riverbanks. Bridges were washed away. Villages were flooded. And rafting was cancelled. To give an idea of what the river was doing its best to compare a reconnaissance run with a normal descent. On a normal trip the sixty kilometers of river takes about 4 days of paddling. On a flooded descent the 60 kilometers took two Water By Nature kayakers a mere one hour fifty-eight minutes!

So what do you do when you can’t go rafting? The answer is to explore other rivers for a similar type run. Our explorations were an adventure, and a novel, in themselves, and for the most part, foiled at every turn we made. We were stymied by high water in other drainages; the most accurate road map of Morocco seemed to have forgotten a lot of key roads, bridges, lakes, and dams that were essential for our navigation of the country; and local knowledge regarding what could be a possible rafting river was hard to distinguish with what could be a possible drainage ditch running through a densely populated town (one extreme), or a nearly vertical mountain stream that would be death to any fool who’d attempt it (the other extreme). The result was a lot of frustration, a lot of wasted time, and no river for rafting.

So, how do you run a rafting company when you can’t go rafting? That’s a hard one but thankfully we were in a country that provided a bunch of fun and interesting alternatives. Water By Nature clients and guides were able to explore Morocco a lot more comprehensively than a typical river trip would provide. Some explored the beaches of Essouoaria and tried their luck in the surf with kayaks and surfboards. Others trekked into the High Atlas and investigated Berber culture firsthand with cultural home stays. We had kayak schools hone their skills on the waters of Lac Bin el Ouidane and mellow sections of the Oued Allabid. Some groups explored the fringes of the Sahara Desert on the backs of camels and camped beside the Erg Chebbi, Morocco’s highest dunes which tower more than 100 meters high. Everyone explored the intricacies of Marrakech, the markets, the souks, and cafes, and of course, the shops. And by the end of the season, we were able to send a few adventurers on accessible sections of the Ahansel River for some class 2-whitewater rafting.

The alternative plans we came up with as a team provided for fun and interesting times for all those involved. The fact that these plans deviated so far from the norm is what made the season difficult for the guides involved. Not being able to follow a system that has worked efficiently for 10 years was frustrating. Not being able to go rafting was even more frustrating. Having to do a new type of business in a place like Morocco is challenging at the best of times, and downright hellish at the worst of times. Nevertheless, we pulled it off! And successfully too!

Karma is a strange thing. Unlike the Moroccan donkeys, we were able to escape a life-long existence in a difficult time. Maybe what we did in a previous life wasn’t that bad. If that’s the case, they you can bet we were definitely not raft guides in the last life!

Stan and Hamish recently completed a week long Wilderness First Responder course in Leavenworth WA. The week long course was hosted by Lucca, Nick and Rocco from Rescue Specialists though Wilderness Medical Associates. This course is a requirement for ALL Water By Nature trip leaders to have, taking into account the settings and countries we take people rafting and kayaking in. In addition to being an in depth 70 hour course, the curriculum bases a great deal of the course around practical drills and rescue scenarios.

WFR Team in Leavenworth WA

Water By Nature plan on running two Wilderness First Responder courses on the Zambezi River in September 2010. The week long courses are perfect for anyone with an interest in Wilderness Medicine. The course will be run by Rescue Specialists through Wilderness Medical Associates.

Leaving the snow on the ground in Leeds Andy and Gill arrived in Christchurch to find a beautiful and sunny 27 degree day to start their 14 day kayaking trip in New Zealand. Being greeted by JJ and Isaac we loaded boats and headed for hills in search of water. We arrived at the Hurunui and set up camp next to the crystal clear water in time to watch the sun dropping behind the hills and have a few of NZ’s famous beers and wine with a chicken curry before retiring for the night to the sound of the river.

Isaac on The Hurunui River

We woke in the morning with NZ’s weather living up to it’s unruly name greeting us with some fresh wind and rain threatening just to make the poms feel at home and it was time for our first paddle. The Hurunui, Maori gully section is a fun class 3 gorge with some great warm up rapids plenty of eddies to catch, waves to surf, with a couple of bigger rapids to keep you honest with high gorge walls above you. It is amazing to think the Maori used this gorge as a route to carry their green stone from coast to coast.
Gill and Andy were right in their comfort zone with the rain falling as they styled their way down the run both making it look easy even managing to keep their hair dry, then were introduced to the good old kiwi class 5 takeout a steep walk up to the car.  With the rain breaking for us to get dry we loaded the boats and decided it was time to head to bigger and better things and started the drive towards Murchison. Talk about four seasons in one day the sun came out shining for the drive as we weaved our through the Lewis Pass passing through the Alps with gorgeous beech forest on either side, hundreds of little creeks and waterfalls dropping down along side the road. After stopping off for some lunch and to check out the famous Maruia falls we pulled into Murchison camping ground pitched up and headed for the river making sure to push on through the jet lag. Andy, Gill and JJ put on the Granity section of the Buller river with Isaac being shuttle bunny. Bombing their way down the boulder gardens and easily tackling the “grunty” class 4 Granity rapid. After a meal of JJ Sanchez’ famous burritos it was down to the commercial hotel for a jug of Montieth’s and paddling lies and stories with the crew.

West Coast Sunset

Awoken by the sun on our tents and the smell of bacon and eggs in the air we ate up, loaded boats and drove up the Matakitaki valley. The morning consisted of a cruise down the scenic “Middle Matak’s” paddling in and out of beautiful granite gorges, over top massive boulders with the water being so clear you can see all the way down to the bottom of the deep pools. There is even some fun class 3 white water thrown in the mix for us. Back to the camp it was for some “sammies”, coffee and siesta time. This afternoon it was time to up the tempo, so we headed to the lower section of the Matakitaki river. This section kept up on our toes. Negotiating our way down some busy class 3-4 boulder gardens and a nice long class 4 rapid at the end to top it off. Andy enjoyed so much once wasn’t enough, so kindly JJ and Gill set shuttle and Isaac and Andy went in for round 2.

West Coast Taxi... Bruce Dando

The next morning we awoke with heavy rain on our tents. Woo-Hoo just what we need. We packed up the tents loaded up and headed for the West Coast to get some creeking in, but you can’t leave Murchison without hitting the Earthquake section of the Buller, so we bounced our way down some fun class 3 water with more of a big feel, then headed for Hokitika.

After the first few days of getting used to paddling together as a team and adjusting to the New Zealand whitewater, we headed to the whitewater mecca of the Wild West coast of New Zealand.  With a huge feed of fresh baked Salmon we settled into our tents for the night, anxious for the teams first taste of “Coast” boating.   Our first river was the Kakapotahi.  We set off early and made our way down the steep trail to the river.  After a few hundred meters we were scouting the first gorge from high above the gorge walls.  Spotting a clean line down the middle we returned to our boats tackling the complex gorge rapid.  One by one we nailed our boofs and regrouped in the gorge for a few celebratory air punches and cheers.  We made our way down the rest of the river with out incident enjoying the stunning granite gorge walls and tropical spring fed waterfalls trickling down around us.  We headed back town and watched the sun go down over the Tasman Sea taking in a well earned nights sleep.

JJ paddling the coast

We woke early to a big feed of eggs, bacon, fresh fruit, baked beans, toast, and extra strong coffee.  You want all the energy you can get when taking a helicopter into the remote Wanganui river valley.  With 14 kilometers of cracking class III and IV rapids, the Wanganui was a real treat.  As Andy described it, “this is the best river of the whole trip”.  We worked our way down the river punching bouncy waves and holes in good time.  After the bulk of the rapids were behind us we stopped off to soak/ burn in the warm sun reflecting upon the lines paddled.  Close to the take out we pulled off to soak in the warm natural hot pools that eased our aching bodies and provided a well overdue pampering session.

Feeling like a "Rock Star"

Saw us heading up the Hokitika river with our trusty helicopter pilot Bruce Dando.  If your flying into the rivers here, you want the best pilot money can buy and Bruce knows the rivers like the back of his hand.  Having flown in most of the first descents of the West Coast rivers, Bruce set us down just above Kauwriki Canyon.  Seeing the chopper zoom off into the distance you know you truly are in a remote river valley.  We worked our way down through the rapids tackling the continuous boulder gardens and drops of the Hokitika.  After a few hours on the water the Hokitika claimed its first swimmer at the bottom of the double drop.  Gill with a huge smile on her face having just thrown a huge back looped swam her boat into the eddy with Isaac close by.  We finished off the river with ear to ear grins taking in the scenery of the towering gorge walls and crystal blue water along the way.  “this was definitely the best river we have paddled yet”,  Andy proclaimed as we floated through the final scenic Hoki Gorge.

Welcome to Hokitika!

Unfortunatly due to below average river flows we were unable to tackle the Landsborough river and decided to take on the frigid waters of the Waiho river. Flooding out of the terminal face of the Franz Jozef Glacier we put on just a few hundred meters from the source of the river.   The milky colored glacial run was a big bouncy roller coaster ride from start to finish.   Heaps of tourist lined the banks of the river and we tried our best to provide a good show for the hundreds of cameras on us as we descended the rapids.  Having to stop a few times to warm up our hands we avoided the ice cream headache due to lack of rolls and took out at the road bridge.  We headed south in the afternoon enjoying the rugged coastline and gagged peaks of the southern Alps.  We stopped off in Haast for well deserved feed of Thai Curry whipped up by master Guru chef Isaac Thomson.

We had a bit of a lie in till 8 AM and packed the whitewater assault vehicle and set off for the Kawarau river checking out the numerous scenic waterfalls coming from the ancient Glacial valleys.  Today  saw us taking on the Roaring Meg Section of the Kawarau river. Big bouncey wave trains and a few holes to avoid greet you the entire way down the river.  Completely walled in the entire run we worked our way down the river.  Its hard to remember to concentrate on the rapids when the scenery is this good.  We finished off the day with a night out on the town in Queenstown.

Queenstown rest day.  I guess its not really a rest day when you spend the day Jet baoting UP the Shotover River or doing a canyon swing and Bungy jump but hey you got to do something to pass the time.  Tomorrow we will continue our assault on the Central Otago rivers taking on the famed class III IV Shotover Canyon.

New Zealands Adventure Capital, Queenstown

Well after the rest day consisting of Bungy jumping, Para Gliding, Para Sailing, Jet boating, and Lugeing it was time to get back In our boats and face the mighty Shotover river.  Once the home to thousands of gold prospectors the remote narrow canyon walls leave little evidence of the former inhabitants.  We started off enjoying the scenic warm up rapids surfing a few of the waves and holes along the way.  As soon as you hit the hard stuff on the Shotover it’s non stop the whole way.  We paddled numerous rapids working our way down as a tight nit team.  The last rapid has to be one of the coolest rapids in the world.  You dodge a rock paddle into a cave, float through the cave for nearly a hundred meters then exit with a huge slide at the bottom.  We enjoyed a nice lunch along the side of the river watching Jet boats zip up and down the river.

Andy running Cascade on the Shotover River

We woke early day 12 and set off to run the Dog Leg and Citron sections of the Kawarau river.  The dog leg runs starts with Smith Falls a big bouncy wave train to avoids. Every ones lines were solid and we continued down to the Dog Leg Rapid a huge rapid with massive waves and holes littered throughout the confused whitewater.  After finishing off the run we loaded up out trust paddling machine and headed off to the Citron Rapid.  A huge massive rapid the Citron is home to the extreme race each year.  The HUGE wave trains and holes were good to us this day allowing us to pass through unscathed.  Our heart rates slowly returned to normal as we paddle the flats to the car.

We woke at 5AM had a quick breakfast and left the comforts of our luxury Queenstown Accommodation and set off to Peel Forest home of the mighty Rangitata river.  As we left Queenstown the rain began to fall and it must have fallen real heavy as every river we passed was in flood.  The Rangitata normally is run between 30-200 cumecs to day it was peeking out way over 300.  After some soul searching we opted to check out the Lower Section which turned out to be a real treat.  Massive amounts of water barreled its way down the river pushing us back in forth the entire way.  We took off the river knowing that this was the last time we would be paddling together.  Many a beer and wines were drunk that night as we nestled up in the Rangitata Lodge. We reflected on the memories shared and beautiful whitewater we were fortunate enough to pass through along our two week trip.  Thanks to Charles and Norm at Bliss Stick Kayaks. Bring on next years trip…

The ferry slowly cruised toward the coast of Africa and through the darkness the lights of a new continent appeared.  Our journey across Europe was complete but we still had to cross most of Morocco until we reached our final destination, the Ahansel River running through the heart of the Atlas Mountains.  The sea breeze was bitterly cold so we dawned our beanies and snuggled into our down jackets for the landing in Africa.  This was not yet the sunny Morocco of the brochures.

Our blitz across the country came to a halt and suddenly we were busy with work.  In a matter of a few hours gear was unloaded, food was bought, equipment was sorted, and the bare essentials for a river trip loaded for our reconnaissance trip down the Ahansel River. We set off for the river and marked the beginning of yet another Water By Nature Moroccan season with a toast and a few cold ones.  Cold ones is a bit of a misnomer, I think, considering that the weather was colder than the beer.  Whatever happened to Africa being hot?

Despite the high water levels and cold temperatures our one-day adventure down the river went off without a hitch.  What is usually a four-day river trip down a steep and technical grade three river was transformed into a one-day run down what turned out to be one 68-kilometre long rapid also known as the Ahansel River.  The river was fast and turbulent, flowing with the muddy brown colour characteristic of a flooded river.  This descent, which ended with most of us shivering as the sun came down on Bin el Ouidane Lake, was probably the highest flow the Ahansel has ever been run.  Once again, jokingly the WBN crew kept asking each other: ? What happened to the idea of sunny Morocco??

The first commercial trip of the Morocco season happened the day after we first learned the river and it will probably be the best-remembered trip of the whole year.  Six brave souls ventured out with Shorty and Bob to tackle the Ahansel on a two-day river trip ? The classic WBN adventure that takes you down 68km of spectacular river visiting two unique Berber camps along the way.  Mother Nature had another idea in mind for these adventurers.  The water, in Water By Nature, was not going to be experienced on the river but rather beside the river in every form of precipitation and fowl weather imaginable.  As the storms started at river level, the blizzards started on the mountains, and both the guides and clients were puzzled as to the whereabouts of sunny Morocco.

The rain fell.  The river rose.  Then the hail fell.  And the river rose.  Then the snow fell.  And the river still rose.  Night came, the winds howled and we all struggled to stay warm.

The plan for day one of rafting was cancelled because of the sudden rise in water levels.  The river had risen well beyond a raftable water level so the new plan was for us to spend another night in camp and raft the entire river the next day.  We were all hoping for a break in the weather.

On the morning of day two we awoke to a fresh blanket of snow covering camp.  The river was still raging at a very high level and the temperatures were in or around the freezing mark.  After much consultation the decision was reached that we were not going rafting and that the best thing to do was go home.  This was going to be easier said than done.

Sunny Morocco?

Our evacuation route was by road over the mountain passes and back to the town of Oauouizaught.  Things became more complicated when news was heard that the passes were closed because of snow, part of the road out of camp was impassable, and the weather forecast was getting worse.  Soon the situation became comical when more news was heard that our evacuation vehicle was stuck behind the one and only snowplow in the area that had suffered a flat tire.  News of this brought smiles and laughter to the group who, despite all that had happened, and despite not being able to go rafting on their rafting holiday, were all in good spirits and still having fun.

Eventually the WBN vehicle made it to camp and the evacuation began.  The roads were horrendously slippery and still covered in several inches of snow.  Everyone was utilized to push the van out of snowdrifts and hold the trailer on the road as it fishtailed across the tarmac.  It was a slow go but we eventually made it over the pass and back to the comfort of warm dry clothes in town.

Its been an ongoing joke now with the WBN crew that the idea of Sunny Morocco is a myth.  Its been confirmed now that there is sun and warm weather in Morocco.  Spring has sprung these past couple days and the blizzard and fowl weather were just a hiccup. There?s more snow on the mountains this year than in any of the past twenty years.  This promises to keep water levels higher than usual and make the upcoming Moroccan rafting season the most exciting in years!

Bob Vranich

Water By Nature Trip Leader

Its about this time of the year that UK and European paddlers get itchy feet and want to jet off somewhere a little warmer for some fun in the sun. Fed from the Atlas mountains, the clear waters of the Ahansel River in Morocco provide the perfect escape! The perfect time to visit this exotic destination is March and April when the snow melts and feeds into the rivers. The trip is around 100 kilometres in length and makes for a comfortable 4 days paddling in the heart of Berber country. Drag your eyes from the river and you will be streated to stunning gorges and Kasbahs dotted across the hilltops. This year has seen record rainfall (and snow) so we can expect a long and water filled season.

Kayaking The Ahansel River, Morocco

Your journey starts and finishes in the amazing city of Marrakech. This ancient town filled with history and fascinating culture is a feast for the senses. From the moment you arrive in the main square in the Medina (old town) you will be treated to sights, smells and sounds unique to Marrakech. Snake charmers, jugglers and story tellers entertain onlookers in the Djeema El Fna, alongside the many food stalls selling everything from wonderful Tajines (a traditional Moroccan dish with meat and vegetables cooked in a clay pot) to sheepheads and snails for the brave…

Djeema El Fna, The hub of Marrakech, Morocco

The drive to the river takes in stunning scenery alongside the Atlas mountains with views of North Africas highest mountain Mount Toubkal on a clear day. As we wind our way through the mountains we get our first view of the Ahansel River. Our first night is spent beneath the mazing Cathedral Rock in the heart of the mountains.

Stunning scenery on the Ahansel River, Morocco

Our first day on the river treats us to wonderful scenery and wildlife. We often see monkeys and turtles on this section of the river. The river here is mainly Grade 2, so a perfect warm up to the next couple of days. After the next village the river narrows and we are treated to a fantastic range of rapids of Grade 2-4 depending on the water level. With a large fully provisioned gear raft to support us, we can take many of the home comforts not possible on a self-supporting expedition. The Ahansel River has many features similar to many alpine rivers in Europe and all within an short flight from the UK. The last day on the river sees the river narrowing even more as we experience some of the most stunning scenery we have seen anywhere in the world. At the confluence with the lake, you will have to paddle through a large area of wood onto the clear waters of Bin El Ouidane. Here we are collected by our motor boat and get the ride 9km across the lake.

Taking the food and beers, gear raft support.

Back to Marrakech for a night and then our journey takes us out to the amazing coastal town of Essaouira where we spend two nights. The surf in Essaouira is fantastic! Drive up the beach for surf as gentle or as big as you like. The Atlantic surf will keep the most avid surf kayaker interested. As we paddle in the ocean, you’ll see camels walking past, just to give you that reality check; you are in Morocco! After paddling there are many excellent fish restaurants to try, with fresh fish straight off the many fishing boats being used.

Kayak shuttles, Morocco style!

As we travel back to Marrakech, it will become evident at just how much we have packed into 10 days. For a kayaking holiday with a difference, Mellow Morocco is hard to beat.